Cleaning up

After all that soldering we need to clean up the areas that have come into contact with flux. Not only the Fluxite that I use as an extra, but also that contained in Multicore solder. I use Fluxite because it aids soldering and I like to align the joint and add the solder from the hot tip of the iron, not applying the multicore and relying on its own flux.
When all this is done and its cooled down the cleaning begins. I use Shiny Sinks, obtained from my local Discount Store, InExcess, a slightly abrasive liquid, if its good enough for a stainless steel sink-then its good enough for me!. It cleans and leaves the surface ready for undercoating.
Rinse well and the surface is bright and free of any flux residue. Blot with kitchen roll and leave in a warm place for a short while and its ready for adding those last minute detailing parts.
I have a supply of old toothbrushes for getting to those difficult to access places, good excuse for a new brush for what its intended.

GWR Loriot M

Having made most of the plastic kits I have in the tuit box, now is the time to
turn attention to some brass kits that I have put off making for too long.
This example is a Finney and Smith offering by arrangement with Jim McGeown of Connisseur Models. Reduced from a larger scale this kit has been beautifully etched in brass. A GWR Loriot M Dia. G14 Machinery Wagon.
The kit consists of an etched sheet needing wire, 8mm disc wheels,couplings and paint and transfers to complete. A comprehensive guide to assembling brass kits is part of the package together with an assembly order list.
Etch lines are crisp and the only worrying aspect is when the wheel bearing holes are opened out,however, there is just enough to mount them in.
The main body has been soldered together which was fairly uneventful, the brake levers still have to be attached but the bracing will be superglued into position.
One thing to remember is to clean any flux off the model after each session, this prevents any attacking of the brass at a later date.
All in all a few hors well spent and all the time my soldering skills are improving. However, I cannot hold parts together too well, shaky hand syndrome, so thought has to be given to jigs to steady whilst soldering.
The coaches are coming on, need to get some corridor connectors from the Society Shop soon to enable me to complete before spraying.

MJT Coach Bogies

 The component parts have been removed from the etching. The half frame on the right has been folded up and the corners lightly tacked.The left hand one has had the pinpoint bearings soldered in . The pivots are made up of snap fasteners and have been affixed to the pivots.
The wire that provides the springing effect has been passed through the mounting points rady to be soldered in when the bearings have been fitted to the right hand frame.

The completed bogie with wheels in place and the wire soldered to both frames. This provides springing as well as the width of the frames to hold the wheels and ensure free running.

The completed bogie from the side showing the pivot plates attached ready to be fitted to the coach chassis. The dust needs to be removed from the wheels and the sideframes fitted and painted before that but what an easy way to construct coach bogies ensuring that all wheels are on the track at all times.

Coach Bogies

 Two types of Coach bogie frames are available to the 3mm modeller. The top picture shows a flexible type supplied by the Society, these are made by MJT and mirror those produced by them in other scales. Pin point bearings need soldering in before assembly starts. Supplied with wire and press studs for mounting they are easy to make in an evening and then just need the sideframes attached.

The lower image shows the type supplied by 3SMR and are again a simple fold up type but with no form of compensation. They are also a little scant on the width side ,I get over this by using old Society wheels that ride in the frame rather than have pin point bearings added. Quick to make, these I mount to the chassis with nut and bolt rather than press stud. The other upside of this type is that the couplings can be attached to the frame whereas the compensated type needs a braket made up to accomodate the coupling.

Ex GWR coaches

 I bought thes sides from another 3mm member , they are, I believe, made by Comet, they have some of the droplights in semi open positions which saves an awful lot of work .The downside was that the tumblehomes had not been formed. The brass is thickerv than that used today for 3mm coaches and was a challenge to form.
A corridor brake and a corridor third are the subjects. Again the ends are made up with the retaining nut soldered to the mounting plate before that is attached to the coach end. The steps are folded up and slid through the ready made slots and tacked into place, some excellent etching! The sides are then squarely attached to the assembled ends and checked to make sure all is square.Next the roof needs cutting to length, filing to the inner profile and vent holes drilled .

Seen here is the chassis for one of these coaches, the buffer beams are in place and just need the holes for the bogies to be drilled and the trusses folded up and they are ready for the paintshop.

Pullman-Etched Brass Kit

Started to assemble the sides to the vestibule ends previously seen. Its really a matter of getting the sides square to the ends and soldering into place. I run a fine line of flux along the joint and add solder rather than try adding multicore . I find it easier and there is no need for a third hand. Then the chassis is made.

The chassis comes in an etch with the main floor, which have wings which fold up to hold the body square. The solebars are folded up and added to the floor, I use a strip of hardwood with square edges to fold and to hold for soldering . The underside is

seen here with the screws holding the body in place.Next is to find the centre of the chassis in order to find the position for the bogies. Helpfully the side to side centre is already marked aiding positioning. Once these are marked and drilled the truss bars can be folded down and a fillet of solder added for strength and keep them in place. The roof will be a challenge as the ends are domed and the vestibule has a different radius.

3mm Society Display Board

Everyone needs publicity. How many times do we visit an exhibition , look at all the layouts, and ignore the many society information stations? I know I have. That is to my detriment. All railway modelling is roughly the same. We all strive to produce a layout which is as close as we each can come to our own desires.
Most if not all modelling techniques are relevant to all scales, you just need a bigger baseboard or soldering iron to achieve these aims. Many times we have been told that 3mm is an ideal scale-it is- but the next statement is-'A pity no one makes it anymore' or 'Is there any ready to run?' Most are amazed by the amount of products available, I usually carry a file with lists of whats on offer. Plus there is an area group not too far away whose advice and help is freely given.
Thats why I and my fellow 3millers do it! Incorporated within 3mm is a multitude of gauges but we all have a common interest-3mm :ft.
I adopted 3mm because I grew tired of building 4mm layouts, with scratch built scenics, for the questions as to who made that loco, coach,wagon et al.
I get a satisfaction that it runs because I made it, its unique and I am modelling in the best scale.

An exhibition of ourselves!

Just looking through some old files and came across this! We were invited to show 'Hennock' at Yeovilton and I can honestly say that the location was one of the best for a nostalgia kick one could ever get. Not perhaps the best of shows, but, right next to Concorde! Location, Location, Location!

Hymek

 After a raft of wagons and road vehicles its time to turn to the Hymek kit. Cast by Bruce Smetham, it was my intention to build the £mm Society chassis for this. However I have looked at the etching and bits for this kit and have decided to take the easy way out and fit a Halling Motor Bogie.
These excellent little mechanisms are designed to power Trams. They are adjustable as well, so this will just about do for the Hymek.
A while was spent cleaning out the window aperatures and cleaning up the base of the body.
A quick coat of primer lets us see the bits that need
a bit more work.
The marking for handrails has already been done so its just a matter of drilling out the holes.
This is my first Diesel in 3mm so it will be a steep learning curve to hopefully make it ride correctly.

Morris Commercial

ThisWorsley Works kit takes just a few minutes to make. Five pieces are needed to assemble what you see here plus a roof. Assembled with Superglue, cleaned off with the fibreglass brush and a quick undercoat followed shortly by the main colour. All thats needed now is for the mudguards and grille to be picked out and the chassis painted . Then its ready to be glazed and wheels put on. A quick evenings work.